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Photography Location: Great Smoky Mountains National Park
(Tennessee section)
by Chris Nicholson

The forest and the trees (PK265)

Smoky Mountains forest and tree. Nikon F5, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8. More Mountain Scene pictures.
Directions: There are a number of ways into the north side of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The most popular route is to come through the entrance at the edge of Gatlinburg, off Route 441 or Route 321/73. You can also enter from Townsend, at the northwest corner of the park, from Route 73; or from Wear Valley, along Little River Road.
Places to photograph; best time of day/year to shoot; tips about shooting there:

When it comes to photographers’ paradises, Great Smoky Mountains National Park ranks up there with the best the United States has to offer. In winter you get great snow scenes; in spring, wildflowers; in summer, lush green flora and roaring waterfalls; in fall, great autumn foliage. And all year long you get breathtaking mountain views, accessible wildlife and rustic landscapes. And it’s all free, as Great Smoky Mountains is one of the few national parks that does not charge admission fees.

Wildlife

Bears: The Smoky Mountains boast one of the densest populations of black bears in the United States, more than one bear per square mile. And they’re used to having people around, meaning they’re less skittish with photographers (this, however, does not mean that you should approach them; they’re still wild and very dangerous animals that should be photographed only with caution and respectful distance).

Bears are usually in their winter dens by December, but can still be seen occasionally in winter months. Most bears, including new cubs, will be back to full activity by mid-April. As with most animals, bears are most active (and therefore most likely to be spotted) during early morning and toward end-of-day. Don’t look for them just on the ground; look in the trees, too.

And one last note: Your best chances to spot bears will be at Cades Cove and Roaring Fork.

Wolves: Red wolves were reintroduced to the park from 1991 to 1998, but you won’t see them. Some died, some had to be recaptured because they couldn’t fend for themselves, and some, as a ranger told me, “just wouldn’t stay put.” Sometimes a wolf sighting is reported, but rangers think those are simply misidentified coyotes. If you do get a photo of a red wolf in the Smokies, it may be worth some money. It’ll certainly be of interest to the Parks system.

Coyotes: On the other hand, coyotes are abundant, so much so that they compete for food with the other animals of the park.

Other Wildlife: The Smokies house the usual repertoire of eastern American mammals: white-tailed deer, red and gray fox, bobcats, woodchucks, squirrels, raccoons, otters, etc. Elk can be seen and photographed in Cataloochee Valley, on the opposite end of the park.

Deer in flower field (AN312)

Deer in Smoky Mountains flower field. Nikon F5, Nikkor 300mm f/2.8. More Animal pictures.

Waterfalls

They're all over the place. Most require a hike to reach, so bring good shoes and good photo backpack.

Pick up a waterfall-specific map at a visitor's center, as the standard park maps don't do the falls justice. Abrams Falls and Mingo Falls are well worth the hike.

Miegs Falls is a great photo opportunity, but it’s challenging to find. On Laurel Creek Road, heading east, the falls will be in the woods to your right. There’s a long pull-off there, but you won’t see the falls unless you’re really looking hard for them; they’re across the river at about the center of the pull-off, up a stream that goes under the trees. If you have a GPS receiver, go to 35° 40' 164" N, 83° 40' 565" W. As for photographing it, good luck. There’s no path through the woods that leads to the bottom of the falls, and the view across the river is obstructed by trees during the leaf seasons; you could try shooting in winter, but I can’t vouch for the view.

Flora

The Smokies are so diverse that various types of wildflowers are blooming all year, even witch hazel in winter. In mid-April the real show begins with phacelia, trillium, geranium, violets and so on in bloom, merging into May and June's show of apple, phlox, lily, etc. Ask for a guide to wildflowers at any of the visitor's centers.

Fall Foliage

A no-brainer. Everywhere is a good spot. The only variable is how good the foliage season is, which depends on many factors dating back all the way to the previous spring. Also, know that because of altitude variations, peak foliage times will vary in different areas of the park.

Sunrises and sunsets

Newfound Gap: A good spot for photographing the setting sun can be found at the last pull-off heading south before Newfound Gap. Also the Gap's parking lot is a great spot to shoot side-lit mountain vistas immediately after sunrise or before sunset.

Clingmans Dome: Great at sunrise or sunset. You won't get a true-horizon shot because you're in the mountains, but you can get some pretty spectacular scenes, especially if a low fog is covering the lowlands. One unfortunate aspect is that most of the fir trees at the top have been killed off by an introduced insect. The best spot to shoot from, honestly, is the parking lot. The walk to the summit is moderately strenuous, especially with photo gear on your back, and your view from there is mostly blocked by trees.

Smoky Mountain Dusk (SS233)

Dusk from Clingmans Dome. Nikon F5, Nikkor 300mm f/2.8. More Mountain Scene Pictures.

Rivers

If this were an angling website, I'd tell you about the great trout opportunities. But it's a photography website, so I'll tell you that all up and down Laurel Creek and Little River Roads, there are numerous opportunities to photograph fishermen and fisherwomen. Also, all along both roads are great spots to photograph from bends in the Little River.

The road to Elkmont Campground has great river views along the road leading to it, and more great places to photograph anglers.

Roaring Fork

A loop drive in the north-central Smokies. Head north out of the park from the Sugarlands Visitors Center, and turn right at traffic light No. 8. Follow the signs.

Roaring Fork rocks and river rapids (PK331)

Roaring Fork rocks and river rapids. Nikon F5, Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8. More Great Smoky Mountains Pictures.

Roaring Fork is easily a day's work in itself. It's a great location to photograph fallen cedars, spring wildflowers, white rapids and waterfalls. There's also the park-standard collection of old wooden houses. Almost the whole of this area is under forest canopy, so try to avoid working here in harsh light; slightly overcast days are best.

Little Greenbriar School

You won't see this on many maps. It's on the road to Wears Cove that branches off Little River Road. It's an old schoolhouse in a small clearing in the woods, flanked by an old, rustic cemetery. Shoot in slightly overcast conditions, preferably at midday.

Foothills Parkway

Outside the park boundaries, it’s a great drive that is unfortunately washed out and therefore temporarily closed half way through (you can drive up and back). There are great views over the park’s mountains to the southeast. Best to shoot in morning (backlit, sunrise on horizon) or late afternoon; midday will be either too harsh, or cloudy with gray skies (but if you like that look, then have a blast). Some wildflowers shank the road in spring. Pick it up off Route 321 near Walland or from Route 129 at the very western tip of the park.

Area labs, camera stores, etc.:

Other notes:

For more information, view one or both of the National Park Service's websites for the Smokies: the abbreviated or the more comprehensive.

Roads can be closed, especially in winter. Call 865-436-1200 for updated road information.

Several campgrounds are available throughout and outside the park. For hotels, go to Gatlinburg or Pigeon Forge.

This report covers just one section of the park. Also see Cades Cove and Cataloochee Valley.

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© 2002 - 2008 Chris Nicholson